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Detail from some ear ornaments from Jaypur©

Many of the jewelled objects presented contained gemstones backed with reflective foil to enhance the hue and depth of the jewel. This technique was typical of Indian jewellery of this period.

Foiled gemstones were secured into a metal frame using strips of gold, usually ranging from 22 to 24 carats, which were skilfully worked around and between the framework surrounding each jewel. This method, known as kundan, secures the jewel using pressure rather than heat. Gem setting of this type is unique to the Indian subcontinent and is still practised today.

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