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Frans Pourbus the Younger (Antwerp 1569 - Paris 1622)

The Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia (1566-1633), Archduchess of Austria c.1598-1600

RCIN 407377

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The decoration on Isabella Clara Eugenia’s white silk ‘basquiña’ (overskirt) and ‘gallera’ (overgown) is laden with marital and dynastic symbolism including interlocking rings and yellow violets (for fidelity) as well as fleur-de-lys, red roses and black saltires (knotted branches) which allude to her Valois, Lancastrian and Burgundian heritage respectively. A Spanish farthingale (hooped underskirt) creates the distinctive conical silhouette and was also widely adopted in England.