Bas-relief of a draped bust of Louis XII of France (1498-1515), wearing a crown, in profile to the right. A small chip to the lower left is covered by the mount.

The ring has been identified from the Royal Archive as the ‘very curious fine gold enamelled Ring with cameo head of Louis the 12th finely raised on a Ruby’ purchased by George IV for £63 on 24 April 1827 from the Royal goldsmiths, Rundell, Bridge & Rundell. The ring in which the cameo is set probably dates from this time, although the gold claw mount inserted into the bezel may be earlier.

An 1872 inventory of gems at Windsor Castle accepts the bas-relief as contemporary with the sitter and describes it as ‘a rare early work of the renaissance. The mounting as a ring is quite modern’. However, stylistically it is difficult to accept as early 16th century: the King is incorrectly represented wearing a closed, rather than open crown. The image is based on a gold medal of Louis XII and Anne of Brittany by Nicolas Leclerc and Jean de Saint-Priest but the closed crown and dress are different and the features have been romanticised. It would appear, therefore, that the gem itself is an example of early 19th century historicism.

Text adapted from Ancient and Modern Gems and Jewels in the Collection of Her Majesty The Queen, London, 2008